Seasons In the colours of Mother Earth
In the colours of Mother Earth. AAAA featured in Seasons, interview with Sam IJsbrandy - Atelier Sukha.
Text: Laura Gommans. Photography: Birgitta de Vos, Mirjam Bleeker & Frank Visser.
AAAA – Atelier Autodidacts Anti-Algorithms: A Testament to Craft, Culture, and Sustainability
AAAA – Atelier Autodidacts Anti-Algorithms – is more than a collective; it is a movement. Owned and led by Malian artisans, it stands as a bold commitment to preserving ancestral craft while forging a sustainable path for future generations. Under this label, artisans create exquisite cushions and textile totems using Bogolan fabric, a deeply symbolic and time-honored Malian textile, dyed with fermented mud and infused with the wisdom of nature. In an intimate conversation with Sam IJsbrandy of Atelier Sukha, the intricate techniques, cultural heritage, and philosophy behind AAAA are brought to light.
The Spirit of Bogolan: A Living Tradition
Bogolan, or Bògòlanfini, translates to “made from mud.” But this textile is far more than fabric; it is a carrier of meaning, a sacred cloth woven into the identity of Mali. Its creation follows an entirely manual, deeply intentional process, passed down through generations. Handwoven cotton strips, known as finimugu, serve as the foundation, while the dyeing process harnesses the power of native plants and river mud, both rich in medicinal and protective properties.
For centuries, Bogolan was worn by hunters who believed its patterns shielded them from harm, acting as both physical and spiritual armor. Women used it in initiation rites, recognizing its connection to transformation and protection. In Mali, this cloth is often called a medicine fabric, as it is thought to absorb negative energies and bring balance to the wearer. Each step in its making reflects this philosophy—an intricate dance between human hands and the natural world.
A Craft Rooted in Patience and Mastery
The creation of Bogolan is a labor of devotion. It begins with cotton, hand-spun and woven into narrow strips on traditional looms. The fabric is then soaked in a leaf infusion, giving it a warm golden hue, before being left to dry under the Malian sun. The magic unfolds when artisans apply fermented mud from the Niger River, a natural pigment rich in iron. Layer by layer, over days or even weeks, the fabric is carefully painted and re-dyed, deepening into an intense black while delicate, ochre-hued patterns emerge. This slow, methodical process demands patience and precision, yet no two pieces are ever the same—each cloth is a singular expression of its maker’s skill and vision.
Symbols That Speak
Bogolan’s power lies not only in its materials but also in its symbolism. Patterns carry meaning, passed down within artisan families for generations. Each motif tells a story—of protection, healing, good fortune, or the balance between humans and nature. For the AAAA collection, eight patterns were carefully selected, each a thread in the vast tapestry of Malian heritage. These designs do not merely decorate; they communicate, preserving ancestral knowledge in woven and dyed form.
A Contemporary Tribute to Tradition
AAAA’s textile totems honour this tradition while offering a fresh perspective. Malian textiles have long been woven in narrow strips and stitched together to form larger cloths. Instead of merging them, AAAA chose to celebrate their original form, allowing each handwoven strip to stand alone as a piece of art. Suspended from a simple wooden rod, these totems embody the philosophy of minimal intervention—letting the fabric speak for itself, in its purest state.
Each piece in the AAAA collection is a bridge between past and future, rural craft and global appreciation. The cushions, adorned with Bogolan motifs, are tactile stories—woven, dyed, and patterned by hands that carry generations of knowledge. These textiles are not merely objects; they are echoes of time, shaped with reverence for the land and the artisans who bring them to life.
Collaboration with Ethical Fashion Initiative
AAAA was born from a vision of resilience and self-sufficiency. In partnership with the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI)—a program backed by the EU and UN to connect artisans with international markets—AAAA provides a sustainable model where tradition thrives, artisans are fairly compensated, and their autonomy remains intact. Art director Birgitta de Vos, in collaboration with Atelier Sukha, played a pivotal role in bringing these handcrafted treasures to a wider audience while ensuring that the artisans remain the rightful stewards of their craft.
The Philosophy of AAAA: Craft Over Algorithms
The name Atelier Autodidacts Anti-Algorithms speaks volumes. It is a statement of intent, a defiance against mass production and digital shortcuts. The artisans of AAAA are self-taught masters, working with their hands, guided by intuition and inherited wisdom. Their work is slow, deliberate, and deeply human—each imperfection a mark of authenticity, a testament to the organic rhythm of handmade creation.
In a world driven by algorithms, automation, and instant gratification, AAAA is a reminder of another way—a way where time is respected, materials are honored, and every piece carries the soul of its maker. These textiles are more than products; they are narratives woven with care, dyed with the essence of the earth, and imbued with the spirit of a craft that refuses to fade.
Through AAAA, Malian artisans are not only preserving their heritage but reclaiming their future—on their own terms, in their own time, with the quiet strength of a tradition that endures.