Happinez NL Slow Design in Mali
Slow design in Mali, AAAA featured in Happinez.
Interview with Birgitta de Vos.
Text: Dorien Vrieling. Fotografie: Birgitta de Vos.
The Revival of Malian Textile: The Birth of AAAA Textile Totems
Malian textiles carry a rich tradition—handwoven cotton fabrics, painted with fermented mud in earthy tones. The designs are often simple yet deeply symbolic. When Birgitta de Vos first visited Mali 15 years ago, she was surprised to find that original Bogolan textiles were becoming rare. Instead, brightly colored fabrics with intricate patterns dominated the market, catering to tourists. While she understood that artisans depended on this trade for their livelihood, she felt a sense of loss. The authentic techniques and cultural narratives behind traditional textiles were fading.
A Country in Transition
Birgitta recently returned to Mali and saw how much had changed. In 2005, she could travel freely, but today, due to instability and frequent terrorist attacks, moving around safely is much harder. Tourism has nearly vanished, leaving many artisans without a market. This was the reason for her visit: at the request of trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort, who had been approached by the World Trade Organization to help artisans build sustainable livelihoods and reduce forced migration.
From Tradition to New Forms
Birgitta engaged with local artisans to explore their skills and how they could be revived in a meaningful way. As they spoke, stories emerged about the deeper meaning of traditional patterns. Centuries ago, hunters wore Bogolan fabrics for protection, believing the symbols shielded them from evil spirits.
The artisans showed her narrow, handwoven cotton strips, and she immediately saw their potential. This became the foundation for the AAAA Textile Totems. To her, the fabric was already perfect—it needed nothing extra, just a simple wooden rod for hanging. At first, the artisans were puzzled by her minimalist approach, but over time, they saw the beauty in its purity.
A Return to the Roots
The AAAA Textile Totems sparked a revival of traditional techniques. Artisans abandoned chemical dyes in favor of natural pigments, and older master weavers passed down their expertise to younger generations. The collection later expanded to include cushions adorned with Bogolan patterns.
“This is slow design,” Birgitta explains. “Everything is done by hand—from picking the cotton to spinning, weaving, and dyeing. Nothing needs to be rushed.”
A Sustainable Future
While the pandemic slowed AAAA’s operations, production and sales continued. Amsterdam-based Atelier Sukha supports the project with training in logistics and shipping. For now, the products are sold from the Netherlands, but the long-term goal is for Malian artisans to manage the entire process independently.
“This isn’t a one-time project,” Birgitta says. “AAAA belongs to the makers. We support them until they are fully self-sufficient.” In just two years, she has seen the impact—families gaining stability, children attending school, and artisans reclaiming their craft.
Looking ahead, Birgitta envisions a future where travelers visit Malian villages to experience the Bogolan process firsthand. “I can already see people standing in the mud, learning to dye fabrics in the traditional way,” she says with a sparkle in her eyes.
This vision reflects her broader philosophy—stripping things down to their essence. “The simpler something is, the more soul it carries,” she says. “People feel the power in these textiles, even if they can’t explain why. I believe it’s because they are made with love, by hand, in harmony with nature and tradition.”